Friday, August 28, 2026

2026 Update: Still Blogging

An update, roughly fifteen years late

I logged into this blog for the first time since about 2011 and found it sitting here exactly as I left it. Old posts, a design I clearly thought was very smart at the time, a couple of comments I never answered. Sorry about those. It seemed rude to close the tab without saying anything, so here is what happened in the meantime.

Not long after that last post, I stopped having a fixed address. That was around 2012, and it ran until 2020. Eight years of leases measured in weeks, of learning which countries let you sort out a SIM card in ten minutes and which ones make you produce a utility bill you obviously do not have. I lived in France, then the UK, then Hungary, and later Albania. Some of those were meant to be a few months and turned into years. One was meant to be a year and lasted a season.

People used to call it digital nomading, which always sounded more glamorous than the reality of hunting for a cafe with a working power point. But it did give me something useful, which was a very long run of European winters.

What I actually write about now

Most of my time goes to Ultimate Christmas Markets. It covers more than 300 Christmas markets across Europe and North America, and it exists because I got tired of reading the same four adjectives applied to every market on the continent. Some of these markets are extraordinary. Some are twelve stalls selling the same mass-produced ornaments and a queue for mulled wine that is not worth standing in. I say which is which. That has occasionally made organisers unhappy with me, which I take as a sign the site is working.

There is a Substack for it too, also called Ultimate Christmas Markets. That one is less formal. It is mostly me answering the questions people actually ask, the ones that never fit neatly into a destination guide. Which city to pick for a first trip. Whether it is worth going in late November. What to do when it rains for four days straight, which it will.

My travel blog Rearview Mirror is still there and still gets updated, though it is no longer the centre of things. If you followed me here for the travel writing, that is where it went.

The bigger shift is that I now write mostly about sustainability. Food systems, climate change, what happens to a place when its agriculture changes, why so much of what gets sold as environmentally responsible is nothing of the sort. That lives at Cultiveur, and increasingly it lives in video. I make a lot of short vertical videos, mainly on YouTube, because it turns out you can explain a supply chain in ninety seconds far better than in two thousand words. That was not obvious to me for a long time.

And now

I live in Australia, which is about as far from a European Christmas market as it is possible to get without leaving the planet. I still go back every season for the markets. The flights are long and I have made peace with that.

Coming back to this blog was strange in the way old writing always is. Some of it holds up. A lot of it is a person working things out in public and being quite confident while doing it. I recognise the voice, but the priorities have shifted considerably. I cared enormously about how many countries I had been to. I care now about whether I understood any of them.

I am not going to revive this place. It has done its job and it can stay where it is, as a record of a particular few years. But if you found your way here through an old link and wondered whether I ever wrote anything again, the answer is yes, quite a lot of it, just somewhere else.

The links above will take you there.

No, I didn't write this. Sorry.

Tuesday, October 01, 2013

Visiting the Breakaway Territory of Transnistria

Few travellers have heard of let alone take the time to cross into Transnistria. Officially part of Moldova, the breakaway territory claimed independence in the early 90s and is now only recognised by fellow breakaway territories. It has a reputation as a wild, Soviet loving nation with a penchant for bribes but is that what you'll really find once you pass through the military border?

Most visitors travel to Tiraspol, the capital of Transnistria, on a day trip from Chisinau in Moldova and a few stop by from Odessa in Ukraine. Few travellers take the time to spend a few days in Transnistria and in doing so are missing out on a unique experience in Europe. Passing through the military controlled border is easy. No visas are needed and only a small fee is required by those driving into the country. Along with Tiraspol there is plenty to see including the town of Bender and a day trip to see a beautiful monastery rarely visited by tourists. We spent 3 days in Transnistria and it wasn't nearly enough to see everything I would have like to have seen.

The fact is, if you do something wrong in Transnistria, if you break the law, then you can usually resolve the problem with a bribe. We committed a minor traffic offence shortly after entering the country and the police immediately took the opportunity to solicit a bribe. We most likely could have forced them to give us an official ticket but it was honestly easier to pay a small bribe and move on. Paying a bribe is usually the most efficient way out of a situation. Later when leaving the country it came to our attention that we hadn't registered with the police as we required. Again that was our own fault and instead of having to return to Tiraspol to rectify the situation they let us out of the country after paying a small 'fee'. So yes, bribes are fairly common in Transnistria but officials are going to randomly solicit bribes, you'll only have to pay one if you're in the wrong.

So once you're in the country and any bribes and paid and done with, what exactly is there to do in Transnistria? You can start by checking out all the Lenin statues. They seem to be everywhere. Unlike in the rest of Eastern Europe, statues of Lenin have not been pulled down. Not only do they remain but the people love him and what he stands for. Many of the locals would like to unite with Russia and they currently enjoy a close relationship with them. Transnistrians are Russians after all. The people are not Moldovan and do not related the Moldovan society or culture which is part of the reason they would like to be independent.

Tiraspol doesn't have many sights as such so when visiting the country I recommend spending most of your time wandering are the centre of town, taking in the Soviet era monuments, tanks, parks and pretty Orthodox churches. Then try some local cuisine which is a melange of Russian and Moldovan cuisine which should be washed down with plenty of vodka. That basically rounds up the things to do in Transnistria.

In summary, Transnistria is a fun, unusual place to visit. It's once of the easiest Russian speaking nations to visit and probably the only Soviet era loving nation in the world. My only other tip is to avoid staying at Tim's Tiraspol Hostel and book your accommodation via Booking.com instead.

Monday, September 29, 2008

Destination Europe

Aussie in France is no more!

I can now be found at Destination Europe.

Stop by some time...

Tuesday, September 23, 2008

The Amazing Race

I am a bit of a sucker for reality shows and can't resist watching crappy shows like America's Next Top Model, The Bachelor, and The Apprentice.

There haven't been many shows on during the summer although I have been watching the latest season of Project Runway which has been going for a couple of months. This is season 5 but is the first time I've watched it. I'm kinda liking it.

My favourite, favourite reality show is The Amazing Race. The new season is starting this Sunday and I can't wait to watch it. It's on CBS but I probably won't be able to watch it live as I think it'll be on during the middle of the night Paris time. So I guess I'll have to download it on Monday.

Hopefully some other good shows will be starting again soon too.

Poor Paris

Sometimes I forget that not all of Paris is as wealthy and beautiful as the 16th where I live. I spend most of my time in the 16th or in central Paris such as around the Bon Marche, Le Marais or around the Opera, where you'll find the most amazing architecture, wide boulevards, and beautiful parks.

Yesterday I headed to the markets at Porte de Clignancourt to pick up a cheap pair of Converse to replace my battered old pair. I've been to the markets before but not for quite some time. The area is pretty filthy, even by Parisian standards, and the suburb of Saint Ouen is full of your typical ghetto type apartment blocks. Not so nice.

After getting lost in Saint Ouen we walked towards Montmartre and le Sacre Coeur and then on to the Grands Boulevards where I had a run in with a nasty waiter who refused to give me directions to the nearest bank.

I also crossed paths there with the guy from the gym who is the sosie of Said Taghmaoui. He gave ma a dirty look then headed off with his friend only to then start following and chatting up a beautiful girl he passed in the street, who was way out of his league, even though he knew F and I were watching him.

As if we hadn't walked enough we then continued on to see the Opera house, Palais Royal, le Louvre, Musee d'Orsay, and then finally took the metro home. Exhausted.

It was incredible to see the neighbourhoods change as we moved from the periphery towards the centre of Paris. It was like two different worlds.

It's been ages since F and I have spent an afternoon walking around Paris and even though my feet were killing me after the 5 hour trek it was well worth it.

Monday, September 22, 2008

Journées Européennes du Patrimoine

The journées européennes du patrimoine is an annual event where government and historical buildings are opened to the public. It's a great opportunity to check out some of the amazing architecture around the country and especially in Paris.

Last year I just happened to be passing by the Sorbonne when I saw it was open. It was great being able to look around such a grand old building.

This year I was walking past the OECD building in the 16th when one of the guards told me I could enter if I wanted to. Why not? The tour was conducted by a fellow Aussie and we got to see the OECD conference rooms and the beautiful Chateau de la Muette.

Interesting facts:

  • The OECD is international territory meaning I left France for an hour or so.
  • In the conference rooms, each country is represented around the table alphabetically, except for the Benelux countries. Belgium, The Netherlands, and Luxembourg are BFF and like to sit together.
  • The original chateau was used be Louis IV and Marie Antoinette for their honeymoon.
  • The current Chateau de la Muette was built in the 20s.
  • The chateau was used by the Gestapo during World War II.
  • The newest section of the OECD building was designed by IM Pei - the same guy who did the Louvre pyramid.

Not so interesting facts:

  • The Aussie guy who did the tour lives about 50m down the road from me.
  • I met my Greek neighbour for the first time that evening and she works as a diplomat for the OECD.
  • My spell checker thinks Pei is incorrect and should be either Penis or Peeing.

Saturday, September 20, 2008

Munich

For so many years, I've wanted to visit Munich. I'd seen it on travel shows and read about it in books and I was convinced it was the most beautiful city in Germany. Alas, that is not the case.

I spent 4 nights in Munich, just before the start of Oktoberfest, and was underwhelmed with what I saw. I knew before hand that Munich is big on beer but I didn't realise just how much. It seemed everyone was drinking 1 litre jugs of beer from the early morning to late at night. I did have one myself, just to give it a try, for fun, but I'm really not the least bit interested in drinking beer.

As for the food, meh. The problem with German food is that the menu consists of 99% pork and 1% beef. F and I don't eat pork and I don't like beef so eating in a local/traditional Germany restaurant was out for us. We ate mainly Italian and Spanish which was fine but nothing special.

I've always loved the berliners and cream cakes in Germany but aside from one amazing deep fried pasty shop, I didn't like any of the sweets they had on offer. That shop is definitely worth visiting if you are planning on going to Munich. Visit Cafe Frischhut, 8 Pralat-Zistl Strasse, near the Viktualienmarkt where they deep fry doughnuts and other pastries right before your eyes and you can sit and eat them warm, sprinkled with sugar.

Walking around siteseeing was a little boring. There are lots of beautiful parks in Munich and some pretty squares but it just didn't hit the spot for me.

Before returning to Paris we spent 2 nights in Stuttgart in the very nice Arcotel. 125 euros a night for a 5 star luxury hotel definitely cheered me up, along with my favourite Kase Sahne Torte.

The trip was a nice break though as I hadn't been anyway since early June and I hadn't seen F for more than 2 months. He'd spent most of the summer in Albania, taking care of some family business, so it was great to finally spend some time with him - even though it wasn't long before he started annoying me again.

Sugar Free

Finally Monop et al are stocking sugar free Red Bull. About time! In Germany last week I saw they had the extra large cans of Red Bull as well as Red Bull Cola (which was disgusting). I'm sure we'll get those here in 6 months.

I know how ridiculous it is to eat healthily and to stick to eating organic fruit and veges, only to wash it all down with the poison that is Red Bull/soft drink, but I can't resist. At least I don't drink alcohol, smoke cigarettes or do drugs. That's something.

Tuesday, August 26, 2008

On Parle Francais ici

One of my gym friends has been pushing me to do the cycling (spinning) class with her and last night I finally caved in. I was reluctant because I did it once before in Australia and was sore for about a week after! I swore I'd never do it again. Never say never I guess.

So I got to the class early and the prof explained how to set up the bike. I hadn't done any classes with this guy before and as soon as he realised that I'm not French, he started speaking to me in English.

Just before the class started he said to the whole class how he was going to speak in both French and English during the class - just for me! I was pretty embarrassed and it was completely unnecessary as I do understand perfectly but it was nice of him to try to help me out.

What I didn't expect was the looks of outrage on half the people in the class. They we're like, 'no, pourquoi' and one stupid cow said, 'on est en France, on parle francais ici!'. It didn't really bother me at the time so I just said to him to speak in French and he did for the most part.

Thinking about it after, I got really pissed off. He was just trying to be nice, to include me, and she was being a bitch about it. It's not like she said it as a joke, she was seriously annoyed.

Yeah, we are in France and I should speak French and I do speak French, albeit not very well. But what seemed to escape her is that he was being nice. Some people seem to have forgotten what that means.

As for the class, it was great. It wasn't as difficult as I remembered. I'm obviously much fitter now than I was then. I'll be doing it again for sure.